In the Kitchen with Jenni Lessard: Chef brings traditional Saskatchewan flavour to new pork recipes

By Lynn Redl-Huntington

Chef Jenni Lessard is a familiar face to many food lovers across Saskatchewan. The award-winning chef and former restaurant owner is a judge on Food Network Canada’s Fire Masters and was been named one of Canada’s Next Top 10 Chefs by the Globe and Mail.

Closer to home, this rising star has recently turned her attention, and love of local foods, to developing a series of new pork recipes for Sask Pork and its consumer arm, PickPork Saskatchewan. Lessard has just released six new pork recipes that can be found on Sask Pork’s website and social media channels.

“Pork can be used in comfort food meals, the fanciest of dinners or a casual picnic. It’s economical, easy to find and not finicky to cook with,” explained Lessard, whose introduction to eating local came from her upbringing near a lake in northern Saskatchewan, a few kilometres away from La Ronge. She spent her time cooking and baking using foraged ingredients from the forest around her family home, dreaming of owning her own restaurant some day.

“I’m a child of the 70’s so one of the dishes in my mom’s weekday repertoire was the classic pork chops smothered with canned mushroom soup. She must have done something a little extra, though, because when I came in from outside at supper time, the house smelled so delicious and comforting. She served it with brown rice and steamed carrots, and I still crave that meal,” enthused Lessard, who’s first food business was a hamburger stand called Flight Delight at the La Ronge Airport with two friends at the age of 14. She’s been cooking commercially ever since then.

Lessard’s childhood dream of opening her own restaurant became a reality when she opened New Ground Café in Birch Hills in 2005. The restaurant was a nod to her Métis heritage, serving hearty soups and Bannock during the day and fine dining in the evenings with live music and rotating art displays. The menu featured Saskatchewan’s best from Canadian shield to prairie field.

The self-taught chef went on to become the first female and Métis executive chef at Wanuskewin Heritage Park in 2019. She now serves as the park’s Indigenous culinary consultant, responsible for the Han Wi Moon dinners, an outdoor dining series featuring ingredients gathered from the park and done in tune with the moon cycle.

Lessard’s new pork recipes for Sask Pork reflect her heritage and love of local foods grown and raised right here in Saskatchewan. Her recipe collection includes: Bannock Wrapped Pigs in Blankets, Pork Tourtière, Tea and Citrus Pork Cutlets, Pork Cube Skewers Al Pastor, Pork Belly Pizza, and Potato Bacon and Sauerkraut Soup.

“The hard work that goes into raising livestock is top of mind when I develop recipes with ingredients like pork. One of my taste testers for this set of dishes was a friend whose family raised pigs. He shared some memories and stories that reinforced my gratitude for the people who dedicated themselves to providing us with quality food. I want to make sure my part is done with as much care and attention. I listen to all the feedback I get from recipe tasters (often my family!) and adjust as needed, said Lessard, who is a citizen of the Métis Nation of Saskatchewan and a member of the Indigenous Culinary of Associated Nations.

“I love the moment when a new ingredient pairing comes together successfully, and I know the recipe is both doable and inspirational! When I had my restaurant, I sometimes had to use powers of persuasion to get people to try some of my wilder combinations. I think it’s good for our stomachs and our spirits to try new things,” explained Lessard, who also served as Chef in Residence at the Saskatoon Farmer’s Market from 2013 to 2016.

With 147 farms across Saskatchewan raising 2.2 million pigs a year, Lessard and home chefs across the province have no shortage of options or creativity when it comes to pork.

“The pork belly pizza received the most “yummms” from family and friends and I plan to make it regularly,” said Lessard. “In the heat of summer, I’ll likely grill it on the BBQ to keep the house from heating up too much. “I hope people feel free to reach out to me via email or social media if they have any questions or comments about any of these recipes. Part of what I miss about having a restaurant or catering business is being able to see folks enjoying my food. I love making connections and hearing how people make the recipes their own with special touches or changes to some of the ingredients.”